Yamada Besso stands in central Beppu, only a short walk from the city’s main transportation hubs. Imbued with a nostalgic elegance inheritance from a bygone era, this 92-year-old villa and onsen inn is endowed with the warmth and courteousness ingrained into the four generations of proprietors of the Yamada family. Beautifully preserved and tastefully arranged, the inn is a place to enjoy slow-paced moments, ideal for those in search of a curated, traditional ambience teeming with relaxation.
Catch Glimpses of Japan’s Showa Era at This Inn Overflowing With Historical Beauty and Curated Refinement
Hidden in a tranquil residential area dotted with modern houses, surprised passers-by may only spot at first the traditional roof of the building cocooned in Japanese pine trees and, struck by its magnificence, wonder what other exquisite secrets the interiors hold. The same thought crossed our minds when we caught sight of the elegant entrance and couldn’t help but think what more was there to explore.
Originally built as the private residence of the Yamada family, Yamado Besso was founded in 1930 and became one of Beppu’s most renowned accommodations a few decades later, operated by generations of the Yamada family since. Offering a series of calm spaces framed by warm tatami mats and wooden corridors, the spirit of the family was clearly infused into the building after decades of extensive care, tied together by the refined taste and cheerful personality of the current fourth-generation proprietress, Yamada Rumi.
Partake in Daily Moments of Calm Among Rooms Shaped By a Japanese Family Over the Generations
Rooms at Yamada Besso are adorned with delicate touches of nostalgia, with furniture and decor oozing a familiarly gentle sense of comfort. Vases of dry flowers and small objects from the past sapiently embellish spaces and corridors while richly-crafted quilts by a local artist depict Japan’s seasonal flowers and more on the inn’s walls.
The view admired from the inn also stands as a decorative element on its own. Similar to a giant painting where Yamada Besso’s Japanese garden is the central piece, the relaxing panorama takes up the windows, providing scenes of lush greenery during summer, accents of red “momiji” maple trees during autumn, as well as sights of “sakura” cherry blossoms in spring.
Lively glimpses of Beppu can also be observed, with the city going about its day just outside of the inn. In the past, when no high-rise buildings were in sight and the surroundings consisted of similarly built traditional villas, rooms on the second floor enjoyed an open view of the coast and the sea, but as the neighborhood adjusted to keep up with the changing times, the scenery also transformed and only Yamada Besso remained the same. The fascinating contrast gave us the impression that time has stopped inside the inn.
In the “Honkan” Main Building, guest rooms are larger and traditionally presented with tatami and wooden elements, with “Kankaiji” and “Myoban” being the most spacious and refined among the inn’s accommodation options. Myoban even uses up a sizable portion of the second floor, serving as a private suite room and complemented by personal viewing corridors facing the garden. Rooms in the West Wing such as “Kannawa” are smaller and slightly more casual without renouncing Yamada Besso’s tasteful finishes.
Recently renovated is “Kura,” the house’s traditional warehouse. Behind the heavy, distinctive warehouse door is a stylish two-story room that was thoughtfully redesigned to be the ideal teleworking and coworking space and even comes with a projector useful in case of meetings or if you just want to watch a movie with your friends. The loft also houses a sofa, so that guests can take their time and benefit from the room’s secluded atmosphere.
Reset Your Mind and Soul By Soaking in Onsen Full of Old-Fashion Charms
Yamada Besso’s hot spring experience offers relaxation both in the forms of an ample “rotenburo” outdoor bath and a retro “uchiburo” indoor bath. The rotenburo can be enjoyed as a private bath from morning to night, with the bath being beautifully lit up after dark and the deep nuances of the greenery enhanced by day. Detached from the rest of the inn, the outdoor bath was a space where we could immerse in Yamada Besso’s slow flow of time and heal our fatigue.
Embraced by lush trees, Yamada Besso’s outdoor bath emerges between unpolished rocks and lanterns in a rustic, welcoming display that we particularly appreciated. Framing the bath on one side is also a unique bamboo structure, which is one of Beppu’s own tricks to cool down water gushing out while boiling hot from free-flowing hot spring sources. The water, which is considered beneficial “Bijin no Yu” or “Water of Beauty,” really looked beautiful and sounded so relaxing dripping off the bamboo branches, making for a 360-degree rejuvenating experience.
Embraced by lush trees, Yamada Besso’s outdoor bath emerges between unpolished rocks and lanterns in a rustic, welcoming display that we particularly appreciated. Framing the bath on one side is also a unique bamboo structure, which is one of Beppu’s own tricks to cool down water gushing out while boiling hot from free-flowing hot spring sources. The water, which is considered beneficial “Bijin no Yu” or “Water of Beauty,” really looked beautiful and sounded so relaxing dripping off the bamboo branches, making for a 360-degree rejuvenating experience.
Retro components are found in the walls and flooring, which are covered in detailed patterns of tiles that give texture and depth to the room with their geometric, delicate designs. Generations of the Yamada family have taken great care in keeping these historical elements safe and beautiful since the opening of the inn.
Another eye-catching vintage feature that left us in awe was the stained-glass embellishing the wall with its pop of color. The panel was saved from Beppu’s Young Center, a popular theater and onsen inn built in 1953 and closed in 2020 due to the retirement of its owner, preserving an extraordinary small piece of Showa history that might have been lost otherwise.
Replenish Your Energy With a Carefully Selected “Family Breakfast”
Breakfast is a fundamental part of Yamada Besso’s warm hospitality. The proprietress carefully selects seasonal ingredients from around Oita Prefecture, personally visiting local producers or relying on the skills of trusted friends and acquaintances who are masters of their fields to ensure the high quality of the inn’s dishes. She strives to create dishes as nutritious as possible that can give guests the energy to enjoy a full day of exploration, aided by her husband, a professional chef, who is the one crafting the delicious meals presented to the guests.
Breakfast is served in the spacious dining hall on fine “ontayaki” tableware, an Intangible Cultural Property produced in Oita Prefecture’s Hita City, and includes Japanese classics such as hearty bowls of miso soup, fluffy “tamagoyaki” Japanese omelets, and a beloved staple of Japan’s homey cuisine: “tamago kake gohan” (fresh eggs eaten on top of fragrant rice). Our personal favorite was the “sabayaki” grilled mackerel, which was incredibly tasty and easy to eat.
At Yamada Besso, they also make sure to prepare different breakfast options or Western-style variations for guests staying more than one night.
Experience a Time Full of Retro Charms at This Traditional Family Villa
Detox your mind at this 92-year-old villa and onsen inn. At Yamada Besso, you can savor the experience of the everyday life of a long-standing Japanese family and enjoy unparalleled hospitality in a charming, curated environment that will make you feel at home.
Information
Name
Yamada Besso
Opening hours
・Guests:
-Indoor bath: open 24 hours
-Outdoor private bath*: 6:30 am – 11:30 pm
*Reservation required (time slots: 6:30 am -10:30 am, 4:00 pm – 11:30 pm)
・Day-use guests: 11:00 am – 3:00 pm (including the outdoor private bath)
・Kura: 10:00 am – 8:00 pm (last check-in: 6:00 pm)
*Online reservation can be made up to 8:00 am on the same day, after 8:00 am reservation is
possible by phone
*Up to 3 people and up to 10 hours of day use per day
Closing days
・Irregular holidays
*Please check with the facility in advance for further inforamtion about both accommodation and day-use hot springs.
Price
・guests: free
・non-staying guests:
*Indoor bath: 500 yen
*Outdoor bath: 3,000 yen (50 minutes)
Website (Japanese)
http://yamadabessou.jp/
Website (English)
http://yamadabessou.jp/en/
